This splendid late 17th-century half-length portrait depicts a young lady wearing a red velvet mantua embroidered in gold, together with a white chemise and cloak.
Produced around 1695, it’s conceivable that the sitter here is attired in an outfit befitting the lavish ornamentation of Louis XIV’s court. During the extravagant reign of the ‘Sun King’, courtiers were expected to invest significantly in their appearance (often to the point of bankruptcy) to demonstrate their abundant wealth.
Versailles was the European capital of opulence and the ultimate symbol of absolute power - strict fashion rules needed to be adhered to regardless of comfort or practicality.
The young lady's hair is styled accordingly into a ‘fontange coiffure’, whereby the front of the hair is curled and piled high above the forehead. On occasion, this required a wire framework to support it.
Stylistically, the nuances of the handling resemble the works of French court painter Pierre Gobert (1662-1744) who produced numerous portraits of leading figures during the late 17th and early 18th centuries. His depiction of Élisabeth Charlotte d'Orléans (1676-1744) is interesting to compare. Also, his later portrait of Louise-Elisabeth de Bourbon-Condé, Princess of Conti (1699-1775).
In 2008, this piece was sold via Christie’s in Amsterdam and attributed to an artist working in the circle of Jacob Ferdinand Voet (1639-1689).
Held within a later gilt frame with scrolling foliate and shell corners, cartouches at the centres, and scrolling strapwork.
Medium: Oil on canvas
Overall size: 30” x 35” / 76cm x 89cm
Year of creation: c. 1695
Provenance: European Noble and Private Collections, Christie’s, Amsterdam, 25 June 2008, lot 548 / Private collection, Holland.
Condition: Cleaned. Canvas relined. Areas of fine and settled craquelure, as you would expect. The paint layer is stable. Areas of previous professional restoration. Frame in good condition with minor age-related wear.
Our reference: BRV2031