This striking, rather gothic, early 18th-century Swiss oil painting depicts a canoness wearing a three-pointed coif, cap, black dress, choker and crucifix.

Dressed rather intriguingly, this remarkable lady has been particularly interesting to research as we can find no other example of her distinctive outfit. It’s been suggested that she’s a secular canoness hailing from Switzerland, but comparable portraits are exceptionally scarce.

Her unusual headwear appears to be modelled after 17th-century ‘pointed coifs’, which were popular during the 1650s in the protestant Dutch Republic. However, the Dutch versions tended to feature a single point, so this is a notable alteration. She’s also wearing an exquisite crucifix, possibly constructed of amber stones. For centuries, amber has been associated with spirituality due to its golden colour and natural beauty.

Canonesses arrived into a life of devotion for various reasons and not all took religious vows. Secular canonesses unlike ‘regular’ canonesses were often from noble families and withdrew to monasteries entirely composed of aristocrats. Often, there was no compulsion for these to commit to a life devoid of worldly goods or, indeed, one of celibacy. Many had servants and their own homes.

Given the exquisite nature of this lady’s attire, it’s conceivable that she’s of aristocratic descent. As such, perhaps this portrait is a rare surviving example of a secular canoness in all her fineries.

Previously appraised at 3000-5000 euros by Bonhams in Paris.

Held in a later, probably 19th-century, ebonised frame with multiple stepped mouldings.

Medium: Oil on canvas
Overall size: 34” x 38½” / 86cm x 98cm
Year of creation: c. 1730
Provenance: Private collection, France.
Condition: Cleaned. Revarnished. Canvas relined. Fine craquelure throughout. The paint layer is stable. Frame with various marks and showing its age.
Our reference: BRV2023