This beautiful late 16th-century Italian oil on leather depicts a lady wearing an exquisite hair ensemble consisting of pearls and rubies set in gold. It’s an exceptionally rare piece with a comparable example at the V&A Museum in London.

Produced during the late Renaissance period, when Italy was still captivated by the works of Titian (c.1488-1576) and Paolo Veronese (1528-1588), this remarkable survivor has witnessed around 450 years of history. Evidently of high status and wealth, the sitter is presented atop a tooled and stamped background, and carefully rendered in oil.

16th-century portraits on leather are scarce when compared to popular mediums, such as wood, canvas and paper, and were usually intended as decorative enhancements to household furnishings or wall hangings. With this in mind, it’s plausible that it was once displayed at her residence, perhaps along with a portrait of her spouse.

Her hair jewellery is typical for the period and features strands of pearls interspersed with rubies. Ornaments such as these were worn to indicate one’s status and also included aigrettes, made of feathers or jewels, and hairpins. Alessandro Allori’s (1535-1607) portrait of Bianca Cappello is interesting for comparison.

Held in a later frame.

Medium: Oil on stamped and tooled leather, laid on panel
Overall size: 12” x 14½” / 31cm x 37cm
Year of creation: c. 1575
Provenance: Private collection, France.
Condition: Cleaned. Craquelure throughout. The paint layer is stable. Areas of age-related discolouration. Frame with various marks and showing its age.
Our reference: BRV2166